Merry Christmas! Love, The Israeli Government

I haven't really gone into detail here about that visa complications that go along with being a gentile in Israel, have I? Last year when I came here to study, I applied for (and was granted) a one-year student visa. But that expired when my program ended, and currently I'm in the country (legally) on a tourist visa. Tourist visas  are issued at passport control when you land in the airport (unless you are suspicious) and are valid for three months.

My plan after returning from my trip home this summer was to spend those three months pulling together the documents required to apply for my 'girlfriend visa'. Yes, that's right. If I were Jewish I could just decide I wanted to be Israeli and apply for citizenship. But I'm not, which complicates things for me a bit. It complicates a LOT of things for me actually, but we're gonna focus on the citizenship/immigration side of things for now. Anyway, it turns out that if you're a non-Jew dating an Israeli, and you live together and want to stay here, the Israeli government will let you apply for permanent residence. You just have to prove that you are a real couple. So, I'm applying for a girlfriend visa with Itzik. It's a little complicated, full of bureaucracy, and the instructions are all in Hebrew so figuring out the do's and don'ts of the process has proven arduous.

The long and short of this is that my tourist visa expired last Tuesday. The week prior Itzik and I spent a lot of time waiting in the Ministry of the Interior only to be told in the end that there was ONE document which was insufficient and in order to actually submit the application I would need to procure additional (internationally certified) documents from the US government. Shoot. Me.

That takes time. And time was something we didn't have. What to do???

My only option (besides just staying in the country illegally and hoping they wouldn't notice) was to exit the country and come back in to procure a new three-month tourist visa. Sometimes people will just take a bus south to Jordan and visit Petra for a day, but considering the recent war and the fact that Itzik can't go to Jordan with an Israeli passport... I wasn't so keen on that idea. So...Itzik and I flew to Berlin last Saturday. I know, right? What? It was a whirlwind. One second I was crying cause I was scared of being deported, and the next moment I was in a hotel in Europe with my boyfriend looking at snow falling softly outside my window. My life is the worst.

Not really. It's the best.

At first I was stressed about it- travelling is expensive and I am not really in a place in my life where I have tons of expendable cash. But, Itzik calmly reminded me that you save money for emergencies, and this situation qualified. The truth of the matter is that Itzik and I have been together for about nine months, I moved in with him pretty much after two, for a month this summer I was in America, and I've been finishing my MA and trying to find work. To say things have been intense for us would be an understatement. We love each other, and we're both happy to be together, but (individually and as a couple) we needed some R & R. It wasn't gonna happen, though, unless something forced it to happen...thank you Israeli immigration balagan.

I have no idea how to pronounce this properly. Or any German words, really.

So, what followed was an unexpected week in Berlin- touring, museum-ing, sleeping, eating, drinking, laughing, and shivering (winter in Germany is COLD!!). Itzik had an introduction to a white Christmas, efficient public transportation ("subways are amazing, you can get to the other side of the city in 20 minutes!"), and had his fill of bratwurst and beer. I soaked in the Christmas spirit (l've really missed Christmas), did a little shopping, stopped at every Dunkin' Donuts we saw, and was reminded why I moved to the Middle East (I really hate being cold). We explored a new city together, and spent some stress-free, quality time with one another. It really was JUST what the doctor ordered.

I want to go to there.

I might not speak German, but I'm fluent in Dunkin.

Checkpoint Charlie

Berlin's Modern Art museum

Three guesses where the latte is from.

Of course, I was the one to insist on going to the Jewish History museum.

One of the many Christmas markets in Berlin- spiced wine, gift vendors, bratwurst...amazing.

I want to take a moment and publicly state how wonderful my boyfriend is. On top of the whole spontaneous-trip-to-Europe thing, Itzik weathered what is possibly the most horrible activity in all of boyfriend-dom (especially if you're my boyfriend)...jeans shopping. I cried. I laughed. I cried more. I was my most insane self. And he didn't even flinch. He just held my hand, told me I'm beautiful, and waited outside of countless fitting rooms with all of our bags until I found the perfect pair. Then he told me to get two. Cause he's just that amazing. I love him so much.

He's all mine. WINNING.

So now we are back, refreshed (better dressed) and ready to move forward to wherever the winds may blow (also, we're happy that the winds in Israel are a little warmer than in Berlin...)

Here are a few more pictures from the trip as a reward for reading all of that mushy stuff (this is for you, Mary...)

Itzik playing modern-artist at the museum.

Inside the Jewish History museum.

What it's all about.

Stairway to...?

They have Claire's!

Urban art.

So, in sum, I would like to thank the Israeli government for making paperwork that is so confusing it takes several tries to finally get it right. Happy Christmukah to everyone!!!

The Objective: to excite people.

Happy New Year!!

It has been awhile since I've made an update, and for that you have my apologies.

The last couple of weeks have been hectic- which is a minor understatement, so let's flesh it out a bit.

This Christmas Santa brought be my very own Bethany Holmes. Mmmm. Just what I wanted.

The big guy in red sent with Beth some excellent Christmas gifts- deodorant, CD's from Holly, shaving cream, and clothes from my parents. Feliz navidad!

I came down with a cold just before Beth's arrival, which I promptly passed to her as a little Christmas/thanks-for-visiting-me gift. I showed her around Tel Aviv and then we flew off to Eilat for a mini-vacation. 

For those of you not familiar, Eilat is the southern-most city in Israel- a resort town on the banks of The Red Sea nestled in the wilderness- it is literally surrounded by mountainous desert. It was not VERY warm there this time of year, but definitely warmer than TA, and we were able to lay in the sun during the afternoons. We also took in some of the tourist attractions- most importantly the Biblical-themed amusement park known as "Kings City."

I know, I know. This sounds awesome. 

IT WAS.

Allow me to present actual text from the promotional brochure:

"The Objective: to excite people.

How? Through action, adrenaline and imagination."

We "traveled back in time, down into the earth of 2000 years ago" through "The Genesis Caves"- which basically was a maze that housed dioramas of Biblical stories interspersed with strange "wildlife exhibits" aka terrariums with rats and hamsters and snakes and even hissing cockroaches. Objective- achieved.  

We also entered the "Cave of Illusions" which they describe as "tons of activities from another world to stimulate your senses" but in reality was pretty much like a small science museum for children. The magnetic room was really freaky though- and coupled with my pre-existing inner-ear issues was a real trip.

Finally we went on "The Water Voyage" which promised "mildly extreme sensation" as you are taken down a lazy river "voyage through life size replicas of figures and building from the King Solomon era" which "ends in surprise turbo water gliding" (just like real life in ancient times).

We also visited the Oceanarium, which was truly beautiful. The gulf of Aqaba, where Eilat is located, is home to coral reefs, and although it was a bit cold to go snorkeling, we were able to view the aquarium and even ride in a glass-bottom boat to view the reefs.

Beth and I returned to Tel Aviv just in time to celebrate New Years. We spent the evening partying with TAU students and had an excellent time. We partied to hard, in fact, that my cold (which had been making a graceful exit) came back with vengeance. In fact, it came back with a fever and a stomach virus.  I did not let this get me down, but all of this excitement and tourism and partying and hanging out did not allow me to really rest and sleep off the illness. Oh, and did I mention that throughout the holiday season I was also aggressively searching for an apartment in Tel Aviv? Yeah. That too. I was stressed out.

Through all of this I learned the lesson- don't burn the candle at both ends, but if you have no other choice...enjoy the ride. Especially if it culminates in "surprise turbo water gliding."

I feel like I would need at least six more blog posts to really convey everything that's happened in the last week and a half. This has been a pretty good overview of the shitshow that was Beth's visit. It was so wonderful to have someone from "real life" spend time around the new friends I'm making here, and to view Israel through fresh eyes all over again. 

Beth- Thank you for making this place feel a little more like home. I hope you enjoyed your time as much as I did. I will send you updates in real time, and I can't wait to see you again ASAP.

I'll leave you guys with a few more of the photos from Eilat, because it really was breathtakingly beautiful 

(and a little strange, but that's how we roll...)

(Boston!)

Christmas cookies!

My friend Emily had a Christmas cookie baking party at her place last weekend. WIN.

There were about eight girls there (and we didn't mind including a few of our Jewish friends to enjoy the sugar-y Christmas treats). We made a LOT of cookies. And then ate them all.

I made my favorite family recipe- thumbprints (bottom right). A little taste of home went a long way in curbing some of the homesickness. Also, cookies for dinner curbed the "I've been eating so healthy in Israel" feeling.

Worth it!

All I want for Christmas is you.

It struck me today that Christmas is less than a week away.

I wore shorts yesterday. There's a palm tree outside my window. It doesn't feel like Christmas.

Spending Thanksgiving as an ex-pat brought about some unexpected emotions. I'm going to hazard a guess that Christmas away from home will be a whole different animal. I'm not sure there's any way to really prepare myself for how I'll feel.

Here's a quick list of things I already miss:

1. our tree.

2. snow. 

Only because it makes Christmas feel like Christmas. I don't really miss winter.

3. being with my family.

I love you guys. I seriously miss you. And the food. Mostly you...(but the food....)

This could go on for awhile, 

but I don't want to give you the wrong impression (or make myself too homesick)- 

there is plenty I am looking forward to about Christmas in Israel...one thing in particular tops this list:

1. Beth is visiting!!

maybe we'll go to Bethlehem... hahah. I'm so serious, though.

I have known Beth since we were wee. As one of my oldest friends, her visit to Israel will literally be a piece of home here in my arms. I cannot wait. She arrives on Christmas day, and will be here for over a week. I could not be more excited about showing off my new world (and my budding Hebrew skills) and sharing all of these new things that I love with someone I love who has known me about as long as anyone. 

Who could ask for a more wonderful Christmas gift? 

So, this holiday will be strange for me- homesick, a little sad, and devoid of the traditions that have made Christmas my favorite time of the year. But, as with every experience I've had here so far, I'm certain that experiencing Christmas in Israel will create memories for which I'll always be grateful. 

So, here we go. I can do this. I'll be ok.